Friday, 12 December 2014

Eyewitness account of the fire at Raphoe Castle 1838





Came across a curious little book in the library in Letterkenny, 'Reminiscences of a Long Life', by W. D. Killen, D.D., LL.D., President of Belfast Presbyterian College. It's a little A6 size one (the pages a quarter of an A4 page) and it's number 145 of an edition of just 200 copies produced by Braid Books and Moyola Books in 1995.
The great treat for a Raphoe man in this book is the eyewitness description of the fire which destroyed Raphoe Castle in 1838. William Doole lived through almost all of the 19th century, and he was serving as Presbyterian Minister in Raphoe at the time of the fire. And there's much more of interest in the book, including more about life in Raphoe during his ministry there, a description of Belfast in 1820, when it was still a relatively small place of 30,000 people, and the entertainment of W.D.'s often forthright opinions.
William Doole Killen was born in Ballymena on Easter Saturday, 5th April, 1806, and died on 19th January, 1902, the year after these reminiscences first appeared in print.
As time is short this morning, we'll focus on the fire for the moment.
W. D. had good time for the last Church of Ireland Bishop to live in the castle, the Right Rev. Dr. Bissett, "a most respectable country gentleman". The Bishop was well off, a Scottish man with an estate in Aberdeenshire, and the income from the diocese of Raphoe seems to have been substantial - W.D. says "from his see he had an income of upwards of five thousand a year", maybe around £400k in today's money.
W. D. continues:
About this time Parliament passed an Act for the suppression of the see. I had occasion to call on the Bishop shortly afterwards, and found him walking along in his demesne. He was somewhat dejected. "I have now, Mr. Killen," he said to me mournfully, "no great pleasure in going through these grounds. I care not to plant a tree here, for I know not who is to sit under the shadow of it. It may be a Romish bishop." [ . . ]
He did not long survive the passing of the Act for the suppression of the bishopric. In accordance with it the see was extinguished on his demise, and the castle became vacant. It had been built 200 years before by Bishop Leslie. It was a beautiful and spacious edifice, surrounded by an extensive park, and no cost had been spared on its construction. It was now offered for sale; but as no purchaser willing to give the required price was forthcoming, it remained untenanted. Fires had been kept up in some of the apartments, but no fenders had been provided to surround the fireplaces ; and it was said that a live coal, falling out of the grate in one of the rooms, had ignited the flooring ; and as the caretaker happened to be absent, the fire spread unnoticed until it was found impossible to arrest its progress. I well remember the night of the burning. I was sitting in my house at the other extremity of the village when the deep-toned bell of the cathedral began to ring violently, and immediately afterwards I received intelligence that the castle was on fire. In company with some others, I set out for the scene of the disaster. I found a crowd already assembled there in front of the main building, watching the progress of the devouring element. The fire roared and glared as it burst through the edifice. The inner partitions of the castle were composed of dry peat or turf, overspread with mortar, and had apparently been chosen to diminish the weight of the pressure on the ceilings of the apartments underneath. As these partitions, one after another, tumbled into the mass of fire, the flame was prodigious. The conflagration increased, and the whole country was illuminated."
W. D. adds -
At this time the Established Church of Ireland at Raphoe was overtaken by a whole series of calamities. The cathedral took fire ; the bishop died ; the dean, overwhelmed in debt, fled from the country ; the see was suppressed ; the castle was reduced to a mass of ruins ; and one of the curates, who became insane, for a time created a great sensation by his strange utterances in the pulpit and elsewhere.
At the death of the bishop the little town contained 1,500 inhabitants. The population has since much declined, and is now somewhere between 900 and 1,000.

It seems that Lord George Hill could have been Raphoe Castle's saviour, as I heard Sophia Hillen, author of Mary, Lou and Cass: Jane Austen's nieces in Ireland  say he was thinking of buying it before opting instead for Ballyarr House in Ramelton in 1842.


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